A Fiesole walk

.

Fiesole, the Etruscan town on a hill just north of Florence, is well worth a visit, and not only because of the fantastic views over its more famous sister down in the valley.

.

.

When you get off bus 7 (starts at Piazza San Marco in Florence) after a beautiful and meandering trip uphill, you will see the Romanesque Cattedrale di San Romolo which was consecrated in 1028. If it’s open, do go in. It is lovely and resembles my favourite San Miniato al Monte in layout with an elevated presbytery and a crypt underneath.

.

.

Then start the climb up Via San Francesco. It is steep and you will huff and puff, but it will be worth the effort. Two thirds up there is a lovely park, perfect for a breather. Or why not a picnic. You will see half of Tuscany from up there. And all of Florence:

.

.

When you get tired of the 180 degree breathtaking view, brace yourself for the last path up to the San Francesco monastery. It is even more steep, but at least short.

.

.

You will be greatly rewarded. Not only the views but the whole place is lovely. The Franciscan convent dates from 1399, has a little Gothic church with a museum, and it’s all free to visit.

.

.

A peak in to the cloister.

.

.

Don’t miss taking the path downhill through the woods behind the convent. I found it quite magical and enchanting, maybe because of the fact that I was all alone and the weather was damp and grey.

.

.

Back in the main piazza you might want to visit the archaeological museum and see the well preserved Roman amphitheatre, baths and the remains of the Etruscan wall.

.

.

There are several cafés and restaurants, so you won’t have to go hungry if you decide to explore more of Fiesole. There is for instance the earlier cathedral, the Badia. The 14th century town hall. Or why not take the Compiobbi bus (47) to Montebeni and have a gorgeous walk downhill through olive groves and farm houses to Settignano?

Fiesole won’t disappoint. It is worth a day or at least a half-day of your Florence stay.

.

Saint Orsola’s secret

.

There is a strange block in the San Lorenzo area near Mercato Centrale. At first glance it’s hard to tell whether it is being built or demolished and it has looked this way ever since I first came to Florence thirteen years ago;  it is a huge city centre building site where nothing ever happens.

.

.

I recently stumbled upon an article which explained the story behind this unusual building, and also revealed its very exciting background; so I started to do a little research of my own.

What we see are the remains of the 14th century convent of St Orsola. It was inhabited by the nuns until 1810 when it was closed down. Eventually the Manifattura Tabacchi acquired the building and cigarettes were produced in the old religious block until approximately 1940 when the company moved to a new beautiful fascist/rationalist building (see pictures here).

After being used by the University for a while, St Orsola’s was abandoned. Eventually plans were formed to let Italy’s tax police, Guardia di Finanza, move in. In the 1980’s work began to build an underground car park and the old convent’s foundations were excavated.

That’s when it happened.

.

.

Old graves and tombs were found. And as late as 2007 it was established that one of the graves housed the remains of Lisa Gherardini who died in 1542. Lisa Gherardini married the silk merchant Francesco del Giocondo and when she was 24 years old Leonardo da Vinci painted her portrait.
She became “La Gioconda” – Mona Lisa in Leonardo’s immortal painting.

After her husband’s death, she spent the last years of her life in St. Orsola’s and was buried there.

.

Photo Wikipedia

.

Wow.

Apparently the plans for the tax police moving in were in fact cancelled. And from what I understand the city of Florence is or has been considering turning the old St Orsola’s convent into a Mona Lisa art center. Exciting plans indeed.
It will be interesting to see what happens.
Meanwhile the block still looks as deserted as ever.

.

.