Tag Archives: Fiesole

A Fiesole walk

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Fiesole, the Etruscan town on a hill just north of Florence, is well worth a visit, and not only because of the fantastic views over its more famous sister down in the valley.

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When you get off bus 7 (starts at Piazza San Marco in Florence) after a beautiful and meandering trip uphill, you will see the Romanesque Cattedrale di San Romolo which was consecrated in 1028. If it’s open, do go in. It is lovely and resembles my favourite San Miniato al Monte in layout with an elevated presbytery and a crypt underneath.

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Then start the climb up Via San Francesco. It is steep and you will huff and puff, but it will be worth the effort. Two thirds up there is a lovely park, perfect for a breather. Or why not a picnic. You will see half of Tuscany from up there. And all of Florence:

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When you get tired of the 180 degree breathtaking view, brace yourself for the last path up to the San Francesco monastery. It is even more steep, but at least short.

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You will be greatly rewarded. Not only the views but the whole place is lovely. The Franciscan convent dates from 1399, has a little Gothic church with a museum, and it’s all free to visit.

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A peak in to the cloister.

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Don’t miss taking the path downhill through the woods behind the convent. I found it quite magical and enchanting, maybe because of the fact that I was all alone and the weather was damp and grey.

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Back in the main piazza you might want to visit the archaeological museum and see the well preserved Roman amphitheatre, baths and the remains of the Etruscan wall.

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There are several cafés and restaurants, so you won’t have to go hungry if you decide to explore more of Fiesole. There is for instance the earlier cathedral, the Badia. The 14th century town hall. Or why not take the Compiobbi bus (47) to Montebeni and have a gorgeous walk downhill through olive groves and farm houses to Settignano?

Fiesole won’t disappoint. It is worth a day or at least a half-day of your Florence stay.

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Vaulty

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Florence is full of vaults and arches. Maybe most cities are, but in Florence you really notice them. And once you’ve started to see them, they are everywhere. Here Santa Maria Novella with her beautiful gothic stripes.

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Some of the most famous vaults of Florence.
Brunelleschi’s 15th century innovation for the loggia of Ospedale degli Innocenti.

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The same idea with slender pillars in a university building at via Santa Reparata.

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Behind the Santa Croce basilica is a lovely little garden with flowering pots and two pregnant, very cuddly cats.
And vaults.

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Under the Vasari corridor which connects Palazzo Vecchio and Palazzo Pitti. From 1564.

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The Duomo, with its rich exterior. Both romanesque and gothic. Enough to feed one’s curiosity for a lifetime…

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Villa, wall and vaults at La Gamberaia in Settignano. Originally from the 14th century, but rebuilt and changed in every century since. Most of the villa itself was destroyed in WWII and rebuilt using old plans.

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A nocturnal door vault, like from A thousand and one nights…
Not sure of the street, somewhere in Santo Spirito area, Oltrarno.

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The courtyard of the ground floor of Palazzo Vecchio, which is free to visit. The frescoes almost reminding of Pompeii paintings. Simply stunning, a place to pop into every time you pass Piazza della Signoria…

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The cloister of San Lorenzo with its center orange tree – which seems to be bearing fruit
no matter what time of year one visits 🙂

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The arches of Ponte Santa Trinita. And a close-up of the peculiar Florentine tree-footed lamp posts.

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The San Francesco monastery at the very highest spot of Fiesole, overlooking the whole of Florence.

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Santa Croce with its magnificent frescoes by Giotto and Gaddi.

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Piazza Santissima Annunziata with the church by the same name, from the stairs of Ospedale degli Innocenti.

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The crypt of San Miniato al Monte, perhaps my favourite of all Florentine churches.
Romanesque, mystical, enchanting.

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One of the thousands of postcard views you see while walking in the Settignano hills.

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Santissima again, facing Duomo, from via Gino Capponi.

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And finally the last vault, from the Limonaia of La Gamberaia. It doesn’t get much more gorgeous than this, does it?

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Heights

The afternoon and evening was all about heights. First Fiesole, which originally was an Etruscan city climbing up a steep mountain north of Florence.

At the very highest spot is the San Franceso monastery.  The monks have a view to die for. And daily excercise for free. 😉

Piazzale Michelangelo at the south side of the Arno river, is a lot easier to reach and crowded with tourists all day.  The view is spectacular and perhaps it is from here that Florence is as most beautiful.

Michelangelo’s David is to be found here and there all over Florence. The original is indoors in the Accademia museum, but this copy seems to be guarding the city, gazing out over it from his elevated spot.

I’ll say goodnight with a photo of the Duomo, Brunelleschi’s dome and Giotto’s belltower. A view impossible to get tired of? I know I never will.