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The morning stillness at dawn…
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and the complete change of scenery when the first sunbeams hit the balustrade.
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Buonanotte
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More Clet
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I have shown you works of Clet Abraham before. Here are a few more of his traffic sign improvements. Enjoy!
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This one was new to me. And it was on “my” street!
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This last one is not from Florence, I found it outside a church in Livorno. Nice!
Clever, isn’t he? Clet.
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Dressing appropriately
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Bologna. No wind. 28 degrees C. (That is 82 degrees F.) The Bolognese ladies wrap themselves in – wool.
Because it’s only April. And Italians dress according to month, not temperature.
And most importantly: They dress in style. No matter what.
(American tourists appeared in shorts and t-shirt. Northern Europeans, like myself, were sweating away in jeans. And none of us looking half as cool as the Italians in all their winter garments 
How do they do it??)
Shopping in style
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The entrance to one of Livorno’s shopping temples. It states above the gigantic door that it was built between 1889 and 1894.
So what is it that you can buy inside this impressive palace?
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Food!
This is the Mercato Centrale, by the Fosso Reale, the grand canal that I wrote about here.
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I walked in just when they were closing for the day, so I was lucky to see this grand building from the inside.
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Imagine doing your daily grocery shopping in here.
I could get completely used to it, I think
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Roof roof
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Florentine streets are so full of details, ornaments and angles.
So much to look at, it’s actually quite dangerous!
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I mean, who wants to keep an eye on the pavement, the traffic and the people you really shouldn’t crash in to, when it all looks like this above your head?
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Peek-a-boo!
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Good morning!
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Good morning from Ponte Santa Trinita!
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Silent stories
via de’ Bardi
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If walls could talk… Especially these old walls, many centuries old, altered over and over…
But they can talk and they do! We just need to use our eyes and our imagination instead of our ears. Then they speak loads.
Just a few examples:
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via del Monte alle Croci
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via Toscanella
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via Lambertesca
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Lungarno Torrigiani
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via de’ Bardi
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via delle Caldaie
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via de’ Bardi
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Piazza del Duomo
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Borgo dei Greci
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via de’ Bardi
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via de’ Bardi
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Palazzo Vecchio
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Sunrise in Livorno
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Before dawn I waited at the Terrazza Mascagni. I knew that’s where I wanted to be when the sun rose.
But I wasn’t quite prepared for the overwhelming beauty.
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Puddle sign
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Just a restaurant sign reflection in a puddle.
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Transportation
Bus stop at Porta Romana. Not called Porta Romana, of course. That would be too logical and easy.
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Your own two feet are by far the best means of transportation when in Florence. The historic centre is a manageable size to walk for most people.
But for those of us who don’t always have great walking feet, or want to go a bit further outside the city, the buses are a blessing. Or at least, they are there. Well, sometimes.
Should you decide to go by bus, there are a few things that are useful to know.
~ Tickets are sold at tobacconists and at ATAF service point at the back side (where the tram station is) of Santa Maria Novella train station. At ATAF you can buy multiple day tickets (for info see ATAF website), but you need cash since they don’t accept cards.
~ For many sights of interest there simply is no bus stop, so you’ll have to walk anyway.
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Traffic at Porta San Frediano.
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~ Only buses with letters instead of numbers run in the narrow streets of the oldest city centre. Their routes are a mystery. They are small and orange and are called C1, C2, C3 and D. No idea what happened to A and B.
~ Don’t expect the bus to go back the same way it came. Most streets are one-way and the route is unpredictable.
~ Bus stops can temporarily change location without any notice or information, not even on the ATAF website.
~ Florentines walk around the city centre and usually don’t have a clue about bus stops and routes, so not much point asking them for help.
~ Around Santa Maria Novella train station (“Stazione”) there are countless bus stops, all with different names in order to get visitors completely confused.
~ You need strong arms to go by bus. The seats (if you are lucky enough to get one) are plastic and quite slippery. You will slide off and end up on the floor or in someone else’s lap if you don’t hold on tight in the curves. I strongly suspect many of the drivers would rather work at a funfair.
~ Don’t count on catching a bus in the morning if you need to go to the Stazione. They are usually overfilled with suburbans on their way to work and will simply drive by and you will end up missing your train. Walk or take a taxi if the walk is too far.
~ The ATAF website is bilingual Italian/English but you are lucky if you manage to get some useful info out of it. I find one needs to know a lot of local geography to understand how to make a correct search. I usually fail.
If this have slightly put you off going by bus in Florence – go anyway!
It’s part of the adventure!
And whatever you do, don’t miss taking the number 7 from Piazza San Marco to Fiesole!
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Trams at Scandicci end station.
PS If your feet are really tired and you’re still hungry to see more, why not take the new tram line to Scandicci and see something equally genuine Florentine as Piazza Duomo but far away from the tourist crowds?
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Upside down house
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If you stroll along Borgo Ognissanti you will come across this peculiarly oversized balcony. But that is not the only odd thing about this building. There is something disturbing about the ornaments, they don’t look quite right.
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That’s because they are all upside down!
And I’ll tell you why.
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In the 1530′s a Florentine gentleman wanted to build a house for himself. He was particularly fond of the classic Roman architectural style with large and jutting balconies. Unfortunately, Florence’s Duke at the time, Alessandro de’ Medici, happened to dislike the Roman style and denied the man planning permission several times.
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The story goes that the Duke finally dared the gentleman to build his house upside down. The man took up the challenge and built his palazzo literally upside down.
And that is the way it’s been ever since.
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Luscious lunch
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This is my Italian food. A plate of reds, greens and whites, the colours of the Italian flag, plus an egg or two and a good olive oil. To bring out to the sunny terrace with a glass of Chianti. With small variations and the odd restaurant visit, this pure and simple food keeps me happy and going day after day.
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Livorno Fosso Reale
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In Livorno one is always close to water. The port dominates the skyline with its cranes and cruise ships, and gulls sit on every statue’s head. But it’s not all about the sea. The historic centre is surrounded and criss-crossed by canals. The main canal Fosso Reale is strictly speaking not a canal but a moat that used to enclose the fortified Medicean city. Nowadays it is filled with boats and the quays are used as terraces or fishing sheds or even restaurants.
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The city suffered severely during the second world war and was badly damaged by bombs. The old San Benedetto bridge is the only one still intact, all the others were destroyed.
Many of Livorno’s houses are painted in really bright colours. Such a contrast to Florence’s sober yellow plaster, or to Siena’s racy brown bricks!
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I will come back to this part of the Fosso Reale since there are interesting buildings on both sides. The Mercato Centrale on the left and the wonderful but sadly ruined Dutch church on the right. More about those later!
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The window that cannot be closed
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Piazza Santissima Annunziata is not only a beautiful square with terrific history (for instance the birth of the Renaissance in Ospedale degli Innocenti, the angel who finished the altar painting in the Santissima church, etcetera). It also has its own tragic and romantic ghost story.
A young girl married a gentleman of the Grifoni family and moved into the Palazzo Grifoni (above). The couple were in love and very happy until the day came when he was called off to war. He promised her to come back soon and she waved goodbye to him from her window.
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She waited and waited, but the young man didn’t return. Weeks and months turned into years, and every day she sat by her window hoping to see him again. The shutters were always half-open.
But she waited in vain, he was forever gone.
The woman grew old and eventually she died. When she was carried out of the room someone closed the window that had been open for all those years. Then a whirlwind swept through the room, throwing books out of the shelf, lights were blinking, the floor shook and furniture flew across the room. It scared the people present half to death and it didn’t stop until the window was opened again.
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Since then the shutters of that window are always kept ajar, and if you ever come to Piazza Santissima Annunziata you can see for yourself. Top floor, the window next to the corner. You will find the bottom of one of the shutters open, sometimes both of them, like on these photos.
Thus the woman can go on looking for her husband and the house is calm and peaceful.
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Lampioni x 3
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It’s hard to imagine Florence without its lampioni, lamp posts.
Here three mobile shots via Instagram:
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Mopeds parked along the Arno in San Niccolò.
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Late afternoon shadows in via San Niccolò.
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View from viale Galileo.
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Still life snap
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A snapshot from my little terrace.
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Sogni d’oro
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I wish you buonanotte with this photo from Livorno and Terrazza Mascagni.
The Italians say Sogni d’oro – golden dreams!
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Michelangelo’s portrait
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Palazzo Vecchio is a house of many secrets. I’ll let you in on one of them now.
If you look closely on the front wall just behind the Hercules sculpture, near the corner of via della Ninna, you will see a stone that looks different from the others. There is a portrait of a man carved into it. And there is of course a legend to go with the image.
The story exists in different versions, but all of them accredit Michelangelo as the artist. And it is told that he made the portrait with his hands tied behind his back, not seeing what he was doing, as part of a bet.
So who is the portrayed man? Some say it’s a self portrait, others that it is someone who every day stopped Michelangelo at that very spot and made him listen to his problems. Another version tells of a man who owed Michelangelo money and that he had somehow fallen out with. And yet another of a man that was sent to the gallows in the Piazza Signoria.
We will never know. But all stories agree that the skillfully made image is by the hand of the master himself.
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Windows x 3
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All Florentine houses have rendered walls and wooden shutters. All of them.
Still there are countless variations on that theme. And I never tire of looking at them.
Just a few examples:
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Out of step.
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Classical lines.
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Symmetry. Almost.
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Lizard with a view
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Ciao!
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Dante’s lions
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Piazza Santa Croce with its grand basilica. In 1865, when Florence had become capital of the united Italy, a marble statue of Dante was placed in the middle of the piazza. There it remained up until 1968 when the Florentines wanted to play football in historic costumes in the piazza and Dante was hopelessly in the way.
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So he was moved to the side of the church instead. Along with his eagle and his four lions. They are a terribly serious lot. Dante of course the most grumpy of them all. But this time, let’s leave the literary giant aside and take a closer look at the cats instead.
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Each of them resting one paw on the city’s coat of arms, representing the power of the people during the Republic of Florence.
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These kitties are really majestic, strong and muscular. And with a gaze of steel.
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One can tell they are brothers, but not identical quadruplets. Their individual differences and personalities emerge at closer inspection.
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The artist who created this work is Enrico Pazzi, a sculptor born in Ravenna, which happens to be where Dante died in exile. Relations between the two cities have been strained for centuries, since Florence has asked repeatedly for Dante’s remains to return to his birthplace and Ravenna has refused. So, the tomb built for him inside Santa Croce remains empty, and Dante still rests in Ravenna.
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Arriving in Livorno
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Going by train in Tuscany is easy. The ride from Florence to Livorno is about 1h 20 mins and there is at least one train per hour. But don’t forget to validate your ticket in the green machine before you board the train! Otherwise you will be fined.
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Livorno Stazione Centrale opened in 1910 and there is lots of faded charm and an air of La Belle Époque over the whole area.
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The station building is grand, not to say monumental. It makes one feel like arriving in a coastal health resort a hundred years ago in a corset and long crisp skirts, twirling a little parasol while the carrier takes care of the pile of trunks containing more crisp skirts and striped long-legged bathing costumes…
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Well.
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A few steps from the stazione you walk in to a small park with a pond.
Next surprise. The pond is filled with not only carp fish but turtles!
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Real alive small lovely turtles. That had me wondering a bit. Don’t they ever get stolen? It would be easy to just go in and grab one. But maybe that sort of behaviour is unknown in civilized Tuscany?
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Now, since I didn’t have a porter and a carriage and crisp skirts, I took my little suitcase and trudged off, following this great sign. “Mare” it says. The sea. What else do you need to know?
To be continued.
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Stuff on walls
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Dog and dove
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Dragon torch holder, Bologna
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Television violence
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I do!
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Shopping at Conad
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San Giuseppe
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Certosa monastery
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Arrivederci Firenze
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It’s time to say goodbye and arrivederci and go home. Tomorrow morning I’ll be walking along the Arno to the train station, and maybe it will look something like this. The blue hills in the haze, the smoke from the burning of cut off olive twigs, the stillness of the river and the little waterfall.
I’ll see you in a couple of days, when I have sorted myself and my photos out. I really look forward to showing you what I’ve seen this week!
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Bologna
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To me, Bologna was mainly about three things. And this photo sums them all up: the colour red, sharp shadows and vaults upon vaults upon vaults.
There is a lot more to be said on this matter, and it will be said. When it’s not 28 degrees C!
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The heat is on
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It’s hot. Hotter than I expected and hotter than the forecast said. Luckily I brought sandals which are slowly painting my feet red and white in stripes. Face and arms are all red.
Coming from icy streets to summer was a shock for the skin. But what a relief for squeaking muscles and crackly joints and a soul oh so tired of winter!
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Certosa
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So. I ended up in a monastery today. La Certosa di Galluzzo just south of Florence. I was looking forward to a quiet afternoon in the Tuscan countryside, but it turned out to be a bit of a struggle getting there. More about that later.
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Anyway, I made it in time for the guided tour (which is free and the only way to get inside), colore pomodoro in the face and sweating like a jazz musician as I had raised up the hill in 25 degrees C.
But.
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When I got inside and felt the stillness and saw the utter beauty of this place I turned all calm and cool and happy again. The monk who guided us spoke only Italian, so I could ignore him with a clean conscience and concentrate on the important stuff.
Photographing!
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I am really glad I found and bought a new memory card for my camera today, since I used at least 400 frames just this afternoon. Again, as with everything I post while travelling, I will return to this fantastic place several times on the blog. These few pictures are merely appetizers
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Eight out of a thousand
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Back in Florence again, before I crash into bed I want to share just a few of all my impressions from Livorno. Here are eight of at least a thousand photos. Good grief, what will I do with them all? First the Terrazza Mascagni, the gorgeous beach promenade with something for everybody. For me: the roaring sea, the shapes and the shadows. I adore it!
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Fortezza Nuova, which of course isn’t very new at all, and the odd looking Santa Caterina church. The canals and bridges formed an interesting pattern, and I found it quite easy to get lost, but then just as easy to get unlost again!
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Livorno is full of beauty, even if it may not be as obvious to some as the beauty of Florence.
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The Terrazza again. A magical place.
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Villas like these two beauties in an almost surreal architectural form, line the waterfront south of the city. Disneyland? Fairytale? Or just wonderful?
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Other gems are forgotten, overgrown and decayed beyond salvation, like this art nouveau style luxury spa. How very sad.
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To reach this place you need to go on a hundred year old funicular, unbelievably high up on a hill. I’ll show you the stunning views in another post.
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I loved everything about Livorno. And I’ll come back many times to show you all of this and more, in detail. But what I kept coming back to, and which blew my mind everytime, was the sea. Here the sunset from the roof terrace swimming pool at the hotel. Need I say it was breathtaking?
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Livorno – or paradiso?
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This morning I decided this was Livorno Day so I got on the train and have had a simply fabulous day! City walk, fish Livornese style for lunch, checking in to a wonderful hotel, becoming mesmerised by the sea over and over again, riding a funicolare halfway up to heaven…Full day!
I’m sitting in my room trying to upload all my photos from today, but there’s too many for my tiny laptop! I promise there will be more photos and posts from Livorno than you can wish for over the months to come, but for now you’ll have to do with this one, sunset at the gorgeous Terrazza Mascagni. I love it! In fact I love it so much I want to stay here and never go back home!
Well, we’ll see about that tomorrow… Now I will have a good night’s sleep and wake up early tomorrow to catch the sun rising over the Mediterranean sea.
Buonanotte followers and visitors!
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Did I mention how much I love it here?
A day in a life
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So, what do I do with myself from dawn till dusk here in Florence, you might wonder. So I thought I’d give you a quick report on a typical day here. Or as it happens, this particular day today.
First I walked to Piazza della Signoria just to see how David and the gang were doing.
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Couldn’t see much though, there were police and a military band and parading and pomp and circumstance all over.
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This unfortunate (?) view was all I got. Poor little David.
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Then I walked around for a bit and was happy to find the hidden passway I was shown in November. How much warmer and sunnier the secret, narrow alley seemed now in Spring!
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Then a quick visit to the tiny but lovely Oratorio dei Buonomini di San Martino, just in time before hordes of American tourists crowded the place.
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After two hours and 6000 steps, according to my pedometer, I went home for lunch. I enjoyed sitting on my little terrazza where the sun shines in during the siesta. A plate of lettuce, hardboiled eggs, prosciutto and mozzarella with olive oil and mayo plus vitamin D from the sun worked its magic and after a while I felt recharged and was ready to go again.
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I caught a bus and went uphill
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to Piazzale Michelangelo to see Il David again, while the bus driver had a smoke and drooled over a brand new red Ferrari on display.
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Then I climbed the two million steps (ok, slight exaggeration) up to
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my favourite Romanesque beauty, the basilica of San Miniato al Monte. Tons of tourists and kids on school trips and lots of noise. But I wandered further, into the lovely cemetery behind the church.
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The Cimitero Porte Sante is mostly 19th century and very eclectic. Lots of Art Nouveau though, or Victorian if you wish. A peaceful and interesting place, where I could spend hours. Actually, I think I did.
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After that uplifting encounter with the dead I went home for a meal and a hot water bottle for my poor back. Now it’s past 9 pm and I’m beat. Exhausted. Erschöpft. It’s a tough job being a tourist. But someone’s gotta do it.
Over and out from San Niccolò.
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Sweetness
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This morning when I got out I could smell the unmistakable scent of burnt olive branches. It is sweet, heavy and very lovely. Heaven!
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Buongiorno!
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It’s a nice sunny morning in Florence and we’re all waiting for new adventures! Let’s take off!
My street and my neighbourhood
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This is my street. Well, at least for a week. Nice, isn’t it?
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Lots of fancy palazzi around the corner. And a glimpse of Giardino Bardini, which I have written about before.
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I realised as soon as I landed in Rome that Spring has come a long way in Italy. But it was a (very pleasant) shock to see summer irises in full bloom on top of the wall along Via dei Bardi! At home there is still ice on the pavements…
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This is a staircase where people sit all the time. The last time I passed by today, this evening, it was suddenly empty and I took the chance to photograph it. Between Via dei Bardi and Costa San Giorgio.
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I am really happy with the location of the flat I’m renting. Just a few steps away from river Arno, this morning looking more yellow than ever.
Well, now you know where I am. More tomorrow. Now buonanotte and sogni d ‘oro from Firenze!
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Here we go again
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So, here I am again. Who would have thought?
After having kept a close eye on the weather reports for a month or so and just seeing rain and more rain, I must say Florence is really presenting itself in the best possible way. Sunshine, a very decent temperature, and a perfect forecast .
I had some computer problems that are now solved, so I’ll post some pics now and then during my stay here. But as usual the most part will be posted after I get back home. I love how these trips last for months!
Lunch break is over, time to get out and about again. See you soon.
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New trip
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Time to get excited, if I wasn’t already! Tomorrow afternoon I’ll be back in Firenze, staying in the San Niccolò area, near river Arno and Ponte alle Grazie. Great location and it looks like a very nice flat! I’m all packed, there are practically no clothes in the bag but a ridiculous amount of cameras, lenses, tripods, chargers and cables… Travelling just isn’t what it used to be
A bad foot and various silly ailments will slow me down more than usual this time, but I hope my body will cooperate enough to let me see the most urgent items on my (need I say far to long) wishlist!
So, see you soon!
Livorno in my dreams
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As I am plotting and planning my next trip, I find myself concentrating less on Florence and more on Livorno. I have never been there, but this time I will go for a day and I can’t wait. This town seems to have everything a girl like me could ask for: the sea, a large harbour, canals that used to be moats, not one but two huge old fortresses standing in water, quirky churches, quirky Liberty buildings, screaming seagulls, overgrown cemeteries, a stunning checkerboard tiled promenade along the sea… I could go on…
If you are curious about Livorno, I suggest visiting the Livorno Daily Photo blog, a great source of information on all things livornese!
Photo: Livorno Daily Photo
A Fiesole walk
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Fiesole, the Etruscan town on a hill just north of Florence, is well worth a visit, and not only because of the fantastic views over its more famous sister down in the valley.
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When you get off bus 7 (starts at Piazza San Marco in Florence) after a beautiful and meandering trip uphill, you will see the Romanesque Cattedrale di San Romolo which was consecrated in 1028. If it’s open, do go in. It is lovely and resembles my favourite San Miniato al Monte in layout with an elevated presbytery and a crypt underneath.
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Then start the climb up Via San Francesco. It is steep and you will huff and puff, but it will be worth the effort. Two thirds up there is a lovely park, perfect for a breather. Or why not a picnic. You will see half of Tuscany from up there. And all of Florence:
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When you get tired of the 180 degree breathtaking view, brace yourself for the last path up to the San Francesco monastery. It is even more steep, but at least short.
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You will be greatly rewarded. Not only the views but the whole place is lovely. The Franciscan convent dates from 1399, has a little Gothic church with a museum, and it’s all free to visit.
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A peak in to the cloister.
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Don’t miss taking the path downhill through the woods behind the convent. I found it quite magical and enchanting, maybe because of the fact that I was all alone and the weather was damp and grey.
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Back in the main piazza you might want to visit the archaeological museum and see the well preserved Roman amphitheatre, baths and the remains of the Etruscan wall.
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There are several cafés and restaurants, so you won’t have to go hungry if you decide to explore more of Fiesole. There is for instance the earlier cathedral, the Badia. The 14th century town hall. Or why not take the Compiobbi bus (47) to Montebeni and have a gorgeous walk downhill through olive groves and farm houses to Settignano?
Fiesole won’t disappoint. It is worth a day or at least a half-day of your Florence stay.
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Saint Orsola’s secret
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There is a strange block in the San Lorenzo area near Mercato Centrale. At first glance it’s hard to tell whether it is being built or demolished and it has looked this way ever since I first came to Florence thirteen years ago; it is a huge city centre building site where nothing ever happens.
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I recently stumbled upon an article which explained the story behind this unusual building, and also revealed its very exciting background; so I started to do a little research of my own.
What we see are the remains of the 14th century convent of St Orsola. It was inhabited by the nuns until 1810 when it was closed down. Eventually the Manifattura Tabacchi acquired the building and cigarettes were produced in the old religious block until approximately 1940 when the company moved to a new beautiful fascist/rationalist building (see pictures here).
After being used by the University for a while, St Orsola’s was abandoned. Eventually plans were formed to let Italy’s tax police, Guardia di Finanza, move in. In the 1980′s work began to build an underground car park and the old convent’s foundations were excavated.
That’s when it happened.
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Old graves and tombs were found. And as late as 2007 it was established that one of the graves housed the remains of Lisa Gherardini who died in 1542. Lisa Gherardini married the silk merchant Francesco del Giocondo and when she was 24 years old Leonardo da Vinci painted her portrait.
She became “La Gioconda” – Mona Lisa in Leonardo’s immortal painting.
After her husband’s death, she spent the last years of her life in St. Orsola’s and was buried there.
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Photo Wikipedia
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Wow.
Apparently the plans for the tax police moving in were in fact cancelled. And from what I understand the city of Florence is or has been considering turning the old St Orsola’s convent into a Mona Lisa art center. Exciting plans indeed.
It will be interesting to see what happens.
Meanwhile the block still looks as deserted as ever.
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Another library gem
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A while ago I wrote a post about Biblioteca della Oblate, which is a library/cultural center/café well worth visiting. Now we are in another library, called Biblioteca Palagio di Parte Guelfa. It is located in the tiny piazza with the same name near the Mercato Nuovo.
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We rushed in from the rain and rushed out again in just minutes, I’m glad I managed to get any pictures at all.
So how about having decorated walls and ceilings like these in your small local library? You could if it had been in a former medieval Florentine church.
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This one was called Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra Porta since it was built close to the south gate of the oldest (Roman) city wall, Por Santa Maria.
Since its’ deconsecration in 1785 it has been used for different purposes, like housing fire fighters. Since 1987 it is a library, and if you have a minute (and if you can find it!) do pop in to marvel for free at these treasures.
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Pondering…
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Just thinking…
Florence again in April…
But there is more to Italy than Firenze…
Maybe Rome in November?
That would be really really lovely…
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Chiaroscuro
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Via San Niccoló. Those bricks. That curve. That play with light and shadow…
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Wheeeee!
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Anticipation…
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Colour injection from Lucca
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This cold and gloomy February day it’s been nice to remember the vibrant and warm colours of Lucca in November. Stunning architecture and stunning weather. It can’t get much better that that. Hope you enjoy! And this is especially for M who inspired me to go to Lucca!
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Lilliput Firenze
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Come April and I’ll be at it again. Wohooo!
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Because Google Maps just isn’t enough…
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Wall details
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On display
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Today’s theme is about what we can find in Florentine shop windows. Items and displays that might differ from what we are used to at home. Above Alice’s Masks in via Faenza. A bit overwhelming just to look through the window, not sure what to expect inside.
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Here and there you find elegant shops with copies of classic sculpture. Maybe not the easiest of souvenirs to bring home.
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Neither is this perhaps. Don’t know what security check would say about these Luccan machetes. But they look beautifully rustic and handmade. And frightfully sharp.
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Leather work is one of the traditional Florentine crafts and the quality is usually excellent. Here behind you can see not only nice painted vaults but the leather workshop.
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If a bag is not your cup of tea, then maybe this shop with replicas from the Duomo will catch your attention. Via delle Studio.
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This Luccan speciality, Torta Verde, is a sweet cake made of vegetables. Swiss chard or spinach, parsley and parmesan cheese are some of the ingredients. Looks and sounds like lunch, but is dessert.
Bilingual recipe here if you get cravings!
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A typical food and wine shop. Much nicer than the supermarket.
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Not sure what the decorator’s idea was here. “The only garment you need to cover yourself is our trendy leather bag”? Masaccio’s Expulsion from the garden of Eden (in Capella Brancacci, Santa Maria del Carmine) puts poor Adam and Eve right in the fashion spotligtht.
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And finally an Oltrarno antiques shop.
Extra bonus question for the heraldically inclined: How many lions hide in these photos?
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Purple haze
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The city embedded in the soft Tuscan mist. As it should be.
A perfectly clear day in Florence is never the most beautiful.
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Naive Scandinavian outlook
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Where Florence ends, it ends abruptly. Suddenly the city lies behind you and you find yourself way out in the geography. This is one example of that. Where Via dell’ Erta Canina meets Viale Galileo.
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I thought it was odd but nice that so many people had taken the opportunity to walk in the woods this beautiful day. Cars were parked in endless rows.
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Strangely enough I saw only cars and not a living soul. And I noticed that the cars seemed to have been parked there for a while, judging by the amount of leaves on some of them.
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After I had taken a walk out into the unknown and returned back again the same road, still without seeing anybody, a car pulled up beside me and the driver asked if I had a car parked here and was going to leave. He was disappointed to hear that I didn’t.
I asked about all the cars and he explained. They turned out to have no connection at all to hiking or admiring the scenery.
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Instead, he told me that this Viale was the only street with free parking within reasonable distance to the city center. So, naturally a very desirable spot.
Haha, I was baffled by this prosaic piece of information and thought about frames of reference. Mine somewhat naive as a nature-loving Scandinavian, being far from the reality of crowded Firenze…
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Towers of Lucca
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Lucca is a town of towers. In the Middle Ages the number of privately built towers and church towers reached 170. Most private towers are long gone, but a couple still stand. The belltowers, however, dominate the skyline in all directions. Here is a selection of medieval beauties for you to marvel at:
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San Frediano
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San Martino
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Sant’ Agostino
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San Michele
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Santi Giovanni e Reparata
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Torre delle Oro
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Just kidding
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San Giusto
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San Salvatore reflected
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If you would take a guess which one of these towers belongs to the Cathedral, which would it be?
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The correct answer is the second one, San Martino. Not the obvious choice perhaps.
And if you want to see the most spectacular of the Lucca towers, which I am embarrassed to say I missed shooting, have a look here at Torre Guinigi.
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